Owner Maura O'Connell Foley established Kenmare's original first-class restaurant, the Lime Tree, but has since opted for a quieter life at this smaller, cozier venue. She's passed her chef's toque to Martin Hallissey, who continues her practice of using local organic produce whenever possible. Stone walls, fireplace, and floors are warmed up by colorful local paintings, and the buzz of expectation among the closely packed diners. The contemporary Irish menu may feature crab cakes with tartar sauce, or rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic gravy. Leave room for desserts, which include homemade praline ice cream and a memorable sticky toffee pudding.
Bridgestone Review
Martin Hallissey has one of the best crews, working both in the kitchen and front-of-house, that you will find anywhere in Ireland. The team create what can only be described as a true “Kerry”experience in Packie’s: the service is maternal yet never slack nor slick, just patently polite, and endlessly solicitous, dedicated to making sure that you have a great time. The kitchen crew then produce cooking that echoes this splendidly atmospheric service – light, flaky crab cake with tartare sauce; potato pancakes with garlic butter; seafood sausage with beurre blanc served with prawns and crab claws. You could call this “comfort cooking”, and whilst that wouldn't be inaccurate, it is truer to call it ‘Kerry” cooking, for Mr Hallissey’s inclination is towards the local and the domestic, rather than to imported ideas and imported ingredients. It is this sense of place that shines through in Packie’s: local people working and creating in a legendary local restaurant. You don't just get great food here, you get a great local experience, a true experience founded on generosity. Priceless, so.
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